This is seemingly the quickest and most fun part of the building process. Walls can fly up in a matter of weeks and spaces become alive.
But be aware of the following:
It is important to note that bricks come at different MPa grades. An eight rating is a relatively poor quality – suitable for indoor/basic building only, while a 24MPa is a very hard brick, suitable for external, load bearing walls. There are also specific bricks for facebrick structures, although you don’t necessarily have to use them if your MPA is high enough. Your structural engineer should be able to guide you with these choices.
However, best to avoid anything under ten and to only use a supplier that can provide SABS certificates for his bricks.
Cement bricks have a high MPa rating and are more water resistant, but are not as durable as clay bricks. Also, not environmentally friendly.
Brick prices vary from R3 – R20 a brick – it can make a significant difference to a budget if you need thousands, but don’t sacrifice on quality.
If you like the industrial look of exposed brickwork, make sure you like the brick (even toned, pink bricks are the best), and that you use finer sand in your building ‘daga’ mix. This is not absolutely necessary, but allows for a smoother finish.
The trick is to simply wipe/flatten the residue between the bricks while it’s still wet. How clean you want to wall is up to you. But do a trial run first that dries completely to see how much ‘washing’ you like.
The building sand in Cape Town is much paler and finer (Phillipi river sand), which makes for a much neater finish. Gauteng building sand is brown and rough, resulting in a rougher finish.
Not necessarily required, but if you prefer, seal the bricks after with a water-based brick sealer.
Conduiting and pipes
All electrical points will most likely be cut into the brickwork after it is done. This is very messy and dusty work, so make sure any exposed, final surfaces are protected. Any bagged walls should have minimal pipes as you will see the cut lines and patches, although ’tile’ bricks can be cut to help hide the tracks.
Any external or supporting wall needs to be a double skin, cavity wall with brick force (wire support) every third/fourth row to stabilize.
All windows, doors and openings will have lintels above and at least four courses of bricks above for strength. If you want your windows to go right up to the ceilings a special beam will have to be cast in or below your slab or trusses.
Off shutter concrete
Walls can be created in a day using concrete. Of course, the formwork and steel inner structure is the part that requires expertise and finesse. Best to leave it to the experts.
Plastering is a very specialist and finicky part of the build. Key to make sure this is done with the right mix, highly recommended tradesmen and with a spirit level! Also, essential to keep glass and timber sealed to avoid scratches.
Make sure any changes are done before plaster goes on as cutting and patching after is very hard to disguise once dry and painted.
Popular on contemporary houses is the rough tyrolean finish. Coloured plaster is sprayed on using a tyrolean gun. Can give a lovely textured, weathered finish and great for resisting cracks.
If you want a very smooth interior plaster finish, a Cemcrete or RhinoLite finishing layer can be done after, but you could pay double as all plastering is calculated per m2. Can make for a beautiful finish if left raw and sealed, as it has a silky and mottled finish. See Painting and Sealing for more information.
Any Rhino or ceiling board will require a plaster skim to finish it off, so remember to add that into your calculations.
For more about roofing, click here.